IN BRIEF: The antipodean art connoisseur’s New York, the theatre buff’s London, the gastronome’s Berlin and the lover’s Paris… New Zealand’s capital city has it all within a ‘golden square mile’. Home to the country’s government, international embassies and businesses, Wellington lies right on a fault line. The said square mile was lifted out of the ocean with the help of a massive earthquake a few hundred years ago. Its situation may be precarious, but the combination of height, business and the arts gives this compact city a vibrant energy.
DISTANCE: Depending on traffic you can get into the city centre from the airport within 20 minutes. Take a taxi for US$18 or the bus shuttle for around US$7.
ORIENTATION: Wellington is a very compact city. To walk from one side to the other takes just 20 minutes. The majority of nightlife is around Cuba Street and Courtenay Place, and surrounding streets.
SLEEP: Book into the InterContinental Wellington (formerly the Park Royal) and you may just run into visiting heads of state or a famous rock star. www.intercontinental.com
If you appreciate good design aesthetics and a more intimate set up, try the newly opened boutique Ohtel. Each of the 10 rooms is individually decked out with beautiful 1950s and 1960s design classics. From here, find stunning views of the harbour, Chaffers Marina and Waitangi Park. www.ohtel.com
EAT: Housed in an old bank house, Logan Brown is one of New Zealand’s best eateries – having recently been awarded top honours in the national Best Restaurant Awards. Recommended: Paua ravioli with coriander, basil and lime beurre blanc. www.loganbrown.co.nz
Dripping with coolness is The Matterhorn bar and restaurant, discreetly tucked down a corridor off Cuba Mall. Start with a cocktail, before moving into the elegant restaurant with its über-cool staff and amazing Hawkes Bay lamb rump with Moroccan spiced shoulder pie. www.matterhorn.co.nz
DRINK: For the discerning, Motel is the best late-night bar – a discreet cocktail lounge with a cool ’70s retro vibe. Tucked away down Forresters Lane, it’s dark and moody, the service is exceptional and the cocktails are works of art. www.motelbar.co.nz
PLAY: Fancy some rock music? Swing past the San Fran Bathhouse to hear local bands in action (www.sfbh.co.nz). More risqué is Watusi (6 Edward St), a clever little bar with a burlesque theme and go-go dancers who appear out of nowhere to tantalise from behind their feather fans.
SPA: Centrally located, East Day Spa instantly transports patrons to Bali, with the help of burning sandalwood and hand-carved decorations. Sip on herbal tea as you choose your treatment, each of which is based on Eastern holistic philosophy.
If you ask for ‘firm pressure’ that’s exactly what you will get – it’s the best deep-tissue massage in town. www.eastdayspa.com
SHOP: If fashion is on your list, head to the Old Bank Shopping Arcade in Wellington’s Lambton quarter. Formerly the Bank of New Zealand, it is now home to a series of elegant boutiques stocking some of the country’s top fashion designers.
DAY TRIP: Only one hour by car or train from Wellington is Wairarapa. This is a region of big skies, wide valleys and charismatic small towns. Discover Greytown, a Victorian country village with metropolitan style, and neighbouring Martinborough wine village, surrounded by friendly, family-owned vineyards.
KIDS IN TOW: A haven for endangered native wildlife, Zealandia sanctuary is the place see saddleback wattlebirds and tuatara reptiles in a safe and natural environment. Take a night tour here and you might just spot NZ’s elusive mascot, the kiwi, foraging in the leaves. The glow worms are so bright, you won’t need a torch. www.visitzealandia.com
CONCIERGE TIP: The Wellington Art Gallery is a must-see. Check out the Yayoi Kusama exhibition, which runs through February – it’s out of this world. www.citygallery.org.nz
IN BRIEF: New Zealand’s biggest city hums to a tune of its own. From the inner-city suburbs packed with expensive housing, designer boutiques, restaurants and cafés, to the giant regional parks, beaches and vineyards all within easy driving distance of Auckland. There’s always somewhere new to explore.
DISTANCE: It’s a 45-minute drive from the airport to the city centre.
ORIENTATION: Vast and sprawling, Auckland has 48 volcanoes that provide dramatic accents to the landscape. The city is wedged between two harbours – the Manukau on the west coast and the Waitemata on the east. The CBD rolls up the hills from the Viaduct Harbour with its trendy bars, to Karangahape Road, known for its club scene and art galleries.
SLEEP: Small, romantic and set on the salubrious slopes of Herne Bay, Mollies is de rigueur for visiting celebrities who want to avoid mixing with the masses. Set in an elegant villa, each of the 13 suites open onto the garden. Romance your partner with a candlelit dinner in the intimate restaurant and don’t be surprised if you’re entertained by a little pre-dinner opera on the grand piano. www.mollies.co.nz
Designed to look as though you’re on a luxury liner, the Auckland Hilton is a good base for doing business in town and for late-night forays around the Viaduct’s restaurants and bars. Situated on the end of Princes Wharf, boats literally sail past your window. www.hilton.com/auckland
EAT: With its chichi decor – think moody, dark lighting and tables surrounded by elegant fringing – Clooney is top of the list for a special night out. Try the Freedom Farm free-range pork with confit chestnut, boudin blanc, creamed celeriac and medjool dates – it’s a taste sensation. www.clooney.co.nz
The chef of the moment is Michael Meredith, respected for bringing sophisticated innovation to the menus of his restaurant Meredith’s. Visit on the weekend when his accomplished staff show what they’re made of with a to-die-for degustation menu. Tel: +64 (0)9 623 3140
PLAY: The hip and happening head to Ponsonby Road, lined with boutiques, cafés and some of the city’s grooviest bars. At night SPQR (www.spqrnz.co.nz) is where you’ll rub shoulders with local film and media stars, while across the road is the laidback Chapel (www.chapel.co.nz), where locals spill out in the evening sun.
SPA: All the major hotels have spas attached, and all are of a good standard. The newly opened Chuan Spa atop the Langham Hotel provides a soothing and luxurious haven; everything here is based on traditional Chinese medicines and techniques, including treatments like the Tao of Detox. Find also herbal steam rooms and a rooftop pool. www.chuanspa.co.nz
DRINK: Nothing beats sinking a cold beer or a local Sauvignon Blanc at sun down at the Viaduct. Luxury yachts and launches are moored just feet away from the bars and restaurants here that sit cheek-to-cheek. Soul Bar & Bistro serves up delicious seafood in an elegant ambience (be sure to grab a table outside on the balcony).
DAY TRIP: Hire a car and head for the West Coast. Stop off in the arty village of Titirangi for a hearty brunch at the ever-popular Hardware Cafe, before following the winding roads through the bush-clad Waitakere Ranges to Piha. Here you can take an invigorating swim and then head up to the local surf club for a hamburger for lunch, before a serious bush walk.
KIDS IN TOW: Jump on the Shark Shuttle (it looks like a bus being eaten by Jaws) and head to Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World. Ride on a snowcat through a colony of King and Gentoo penguins, and get personal with stingrays and sharks. www.kellytarltons.co.nz
CONCIERGE TIP: If you’re starting to tire of hotel food, head to the Britomart Farmers Market on Saturday morning. It’s where the country meets the city; you’ll find fresh breads and pastries, salamis, pates, cheeses, coffee, fruit and vegetables. Put together a picnic and then climb the hill to the Auckland Domain – home to the city’s museum and masses of beautiful parkland. www.cityfarmersmarket.co.nz
INFORMATION: NZ Herald serves the Auckland region. www.nzherald.co.nz
READ: Urban Village: The story of Ponsonby, Freemans Bay & St Mary’s Bay explores one of NZ’s most famous suburbs.
IN BRIEF: Prepare to be blown away. Surrounded by majestic mountains, on the shores of crystal clear Lake Wakatipu, NZ’s premier lake and alpine resort has a go-ahead feel, thanks to its year-round, tourism-based businesses.
DISTANCE: The airport is located in Frankton, which is a 10 to 15 minutes’ drive from downtown Queenstown.
ORIENTATION: With the buzz of a holiday resort, the CBD is located on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. Everything is within easy walking distance; just 20 minutes from the closest ski field, you’ll find more than 150 eateries, loads of bars, as well as compact and picturesque shopping options.
SLEEP: For pure luxury, check into Eichardt’s Private Hotel on the lake’s edge. Built in 1872, this icon has just five suites, all decorated with distinctive antiques. www. eichardtshotel.co.nz
EAT: Pick of the bunch has to be the Wai Waterfront Restaurant. As you sit lakeside on a summer’s evening, you’ll have to pinch yourself. Everything is made from scratch or delivered fresh each day, but not to be missed is the line-caught Fiordland Groper served with creamy pearl barley risotto. www.wai.net.nz
SPA: You don’t have to be a guest at out-of-town, five-star Millbrook Resort to make the most of their alpine-ambience spa. Try the golfer’s reviver with a hydrotherapy Swiss shower, followed by a deep relaxing massage. Bliss. www.millbrook. co.nz/spa
DRINK: A former cinema, Winnie’s bar and restaurant has a retractable roof – drink under the sun or the stars. The 9 to 10pm happy hour can get pretty raucous. www.winnies.co.nz
DAY TRIP: Head for Milford Sound by car or tour bus to see dolphins and seals. Kayaking and diving is on tap. www.fiordland.org.nz
KIDS IN TOW: Where to begin. This is the adrenalin capital of the Southern Hemisphere; give them something to scream about on the high-speed Shotover Jet (www.shotoverjet.com). For more ideas: www.kidzgo.co.nz
INFORMATION:
Mountain Scene weekly newspaper is the source. www.scene.co.nz
IN BRIEF: There’s an ongoing joke that while Christchurch may be the largest city on the South Island, it is also the most conservative. This can be put down to its old-world charm created by the grand Cathedral at its centre, the lazy Avon River that flows gently through manicured gardens and the trams that rattle around the city’s streets. Gracious historic buildings mingle with contemporary galleries and the nightlife is lively. Simply wandering around the streets is the best way to appreciate its eclectic mix of old and new.
DISTANCE: An easy 20-minute drive will take you from the airport to the city centre.
ORIENTATION: The Cathedral takes pride of place in the main square. Streets are in grid form and the city is dead flat. Colombo Street is the main shopping street and the Avon River twists through the structured layout, broken only by the expansive Hagley Park and botanical gardens.
SLEEP: New kid on the block, 161 The Hereford, is a five-star hotel that oozes elegance. Its highly sought-after suites come with jet spa baths and rain dance showers. The rooms are light and airy, and the restaurant is popular with its stonework, stained glass and soaring vaulted timber ceilings. www.161hereford.co.nz
EAT: If you’re dining alone, the bar at E-Studio (131 Victoria St, tel +64 (0)3 366 4544) is a good place to blend in, eat and chat to other patrons. Try the grilled chorizo with white beans and sautéed red peppers.
PLAY: The action’s at Oxford Terrace, or ‘The Strip’ as it’s known among locals. Overlooking the Avon River, there’s a host of bars which turn into a raging party zone at night.
DAY TRIP: Just 12km away is the picturesque Lyttleton Harbour. You can easily wile away the day here at cafés and bars, exploring the local museum, with its maritime gallery and colonial exhibits, or take a cruise on the harbour.
KIDS IN TOW: The International Antarctic Centre has a host of interactive experiences that will transport you to ‘being on the ice’. www.iceberg.co.nz
INFORMATION:
www.christchurchnz.com