Set along the Swan River’s stunning lake-like expanse, with manicured lawns and leafy parks on its shores, LARA DUNSTON takes us on an amble around the unhurried city of Perth

1 With its clear blue skies and temperate climate, nobody is in a rush to go anywhere in this compact west-coast capital, so slow down your pace and delight in the fresh air surrounding you. Start your stroll in the city’s administrative centre on the corner of Barrack and Hay streets. Step back in time as you take in the attractive heritage architecture in this historic quarter. Perth Town Hall, with its splendid clock tower, dates to 1867. Adjoining it are the grand Central Government Offices (1874) and, across the road, three elegant 1890s façades. Around the corner is the charming St Georges Cathedral (1879-88), with the majestic Gothic-style Government House (1859) just opposite.

2 The luxuriant Stirling Gardens on the corner of Barrack Street and St Georges Terrace, part of Western Australia’s first botanic gardens, mark the location of Perth’s founding in 1829. The bronze statue is Alexander Forrest (1849-1901), a surveyor, explorer, politician and mayor of Perth. Resist the urge to sprawl on the lawns and instead admire the life-sized bronze sculpture of a mob of kangaroos in motion, just as you’d see them in the bush. The classical, columned edifice is the Supreme Court (1902), while the diminutive building beside it is the Old Court House (1836), Perth’s oldest building. Behind these are the leafy Supreme Court Gardens, the expansive green space of The Esplanade, Riverside Drive, Barrack Square and Barrack Street Jetty.

3 Barrack Square is dominated by the striking, post modern, 80-metre high Bell Tower that houses the Swan Bells – 18 historic bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields that were a gift from the City of London on Australia’s 1988 Bicentenary. There are Swan River views from the top of the tower, but hop on a ferry (every 15 minutes) from Barrack Street Jetty for the seven-minute journey to Mends Street Wharf where South Perth’s Sir James Mitchell Park provides more spectacular panoramic vistas of Perth’s Manhattan-like skyline. Back at Barrack St Jetty, enjoy an ale in the sunshine on the timber deck at The Lucky Shag Waterfront Bar.

4 Cross the Esplanade and hike up William Street to Perth’s retail centre. If you’re feeling lazy, take a free Blue CAT bus from the jetty (every five minutes). The bus takes a scenic detour along the river beneath Kings Park, looping back along shady Mounts Bay Road, before heading up William Street. Alight at either Murray or Hay Streets, both of which have traffic-free malls. Explore the historic shopping arcades connecting these malls and the quirky Tudor-themed London Court, a nod to Perth’s large British community. Cross Forrest Place, passing the colossal General Post Office building, and zip over the railway station to bustling Northbridge.

5 Perth’s boisterous entertainment district, Northbridge, has a number of large corner pubs with wide balconies. The Deen is a popular live music venue, while Universal Wine Bar is hip and laidback. A vibrant arts precinct on James Street Mall is home to the Art Gallery of Western Australia, which houses the world’s finest Aboriginal art collection. The Institute of Contemporary Arts, the Western Australian Museum and the State Library of Western Australia are all here too. Lined with Asian supermarkets, Vietnamese noodle-houses and Korean BBQ restaurants, lively William Street is Perth’s Chinatown. Glistening roast ducks hang in a dozen restaurant windows, but the tastiest Peking duck is at Good Fortune Roast Duck House, a restaurant that will make you feel lucky to have discovered this underrated Aussie city.