In a region where contrasts collide, the mighty Mekong River is a constant. The 12th longest river rises in the Tibetan Plateau then winds its way through Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. At every turn, a new culture awaits: ruined Khmer temples built on sacred mountains; lush coffee plantations and tumbling waterfalls; minority hill tribes; luxury beach resorts looking out to surrounding tropical islands. This exotic block of nations became known as the Indochine when the French empire expanded in the late 18th century. Today, Indochina retains a colonial spirit tempered with its own customs. Slurp on a bowl of steaming pho, cycle through laneways lined with colonial architecture, or speed through emerald-green paddy fields on a motorbike. You’ll need six days to test the waters, six weeks to see it properly, writes Erin O’Dwyer, who brings us the micro-region’s top sights, tastes and city scenes

Sights: Old France, New ASIA

The gleaming neon of new Asia abounds in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, but in the remotest parts of each country, you’ll be rewarded with rare glimpses into traditional village life seldom seen in other parts of Asia. The Indochine makes a perfect stopover on your way home from business elsewhere in the region

VIETNAM

SAPA: Where cultures collide
The mountaintop town of Sapa was founded as a French hill station in 1922 and the romance of the cool summer escape sought by its European founders is still evident. In winter, prepare to settle in for crisp mornings, warm cocoa and melt-in-your-mouth baguettes. Although Sapa is only 350km from Hanoi, the trip takes 10 hours by train. Part of the adventure is getting there. Arrive in darkness and be startled by the lush green terraced valleys that fall away from the town centre. Or arrive in daylight to watch as the world slips away behind you. The tiny town has a population of 36,000 but is a hub for thousands of ethnic groups. People here live a subsistence farming lifestyle in villages made up of wooden houses. In Sapa you’ll see women and children from the Red Dao and Flower Hmong tribes dressed in multi-hued hand-woven costumes, selling a brilliant array of clothes and jewellery. You can taste tribal life firsthand with a trekking and homestay expedition into the countryside. Or, if you prefer to observe from afar, trek solo to the Cat Cat village through paddy fields and animal pens – just 2km away from Sapa.

The facts: Take the night train from Hanoi to Lao Cai (US$12), then a mini-bus to Sapa ($2). Travel further afield by hiring a motorbike ($5 a day). Travel specialists in Hanoi and Sapa can organise hill tribe expeditions. For the best phõ, head to the morning markets.

HANOI: Kaleidoscope of old and new
Despite the diverse beauty across the Indochine, Hanoi remains a natural standout. The capital of French Indochina until 1954, the city has in recent years become a melting pot of sensory experiences as modern malls and high-rise hotels have vied for position among the colonial heritage awnings and verandas. Still, traditional life is evident. Raven-haired young women riding bicycles loaded with sweet-smelling roses. Old men in Non La, or conical hats, balanced precariously on motorcycles hung with trussed pigs. And elderly couples queuing outside the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum for a glimpse of the embalmed body of the leader himself.

Vietnam’s capital has experienced extraordinary growth in recent years, but the delicious pleasures of old are always there. Walk down Lan Ong, the traditional medicine street, and smell the herbs.

On Hang Thiec – also called Tin Street – hear the pounding of hammers shaping metal. And be sure to slurp your phõ appreciatively wherever and whenever you eat it.

In October 2010, Hanoi will celebrate its 1,000th anniversary, making it a perfect place for a first-time visit, or to rediscover the city.

The facts: Hanoi International Airport has direct flights to Bangkok and Hong Kong. The best accommodation is in the Old Quarter. Splurge with the Sofitel Metropole Hotel (from US$169) for a true taste of French-styled luxury. Try a language course at the Hanoi Foreign Language College (from $7 per lesson) or a cooking course with renowned French fusion chef Didier Corlou (www.didiercorlou.com).

CAMBODIA

ANGKOR: Astounding feat by the ancients
More than one million visitors each year pass through Siem Reap. The once-sleepy Cambodian town is gateway to one of the most impressive temple monuments. Angkor Wat, the largest religious building on the planet, was referred to as the eighth new wonder of the world after it missed out on being included in the new list of seven. There are 100 temples scattered around Angkor, so be sure to get your bearings first. Here’s the low down: Angkor was the capital of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer empire. King Suryavarman II built Angkor Wat in the 12th century, in honour of the Hindu god Vishnu. The overgrown site was rediscovered by Europeans in the 1860s and has since become a symbol of human ingenuity – a maze of towers, steps, statues and intricately carved walls surrounded by a stone wall and wide moat. Plan to start your trip at sunrise – it’s worth it just to see the evocative mirror image of Angkor Wat reflected in the moat. Then make a beeline for the Bayon. The Buddhist temple was built 100 years after Angkor by succeeding King Jayavarman II. More than 200 carvings of his serenely smiling face look out from 54 towers. Another Buddhist temple worth a peek is Ta Prohm.

It was left untouched by archaeologists and remains shrouded in trees and vines. For a final destination, make your way to the Terrace of the Elephants. Its southern stairway features three-headed elephants gathering lotus flowers with their trunks.

Need to know: Angkor Archaeological Park is just a few kilometres north of Siem Reap. Buy passes for one-day (US$20), three-days ($40) or for one week ($60). The best and fastest access is by moto ($10 a day). There are direct flights to Angkor International Airport from Bangkok and Phnom Penh.

SIHANOUKVILLE: Beachside bar scene
Sihanoukville is Cambodia’s beachside resort. It’s neither as pretty nor as glamorous as Thailand’s white-sand equivalents. But since its 1960s heyday, when a colourful array of Hollywood movie stars were lured here, Sihanoukville has developed into a thoroughly modern resort town. Surrounded on three sides by the Bay of Thailand, four main beaches make up the precinct – Victory, Sokha, Otres and Occheuteal – all lined with bungalows and restaurants. Beyond Sihanoukville, the south coast boasts more than 60 tropical islands, all within day-trip distance from the mainland. The picks are Koh Ru and Koh Rung for diving and snorkelling; Koh Tang for a glimpse of traditional village life and Bamboo Island for basic bungalow accommodation and a get-away-from-it-all feel. Regular travellers should beware of the backpacker beach bars on the mainland, but with no international airport and golf course or luxury spa scene here, Sihanoukville remains one of the last remaining places to experience an authentic Asian holiday. Diving, boating and fishing should be included on your agenda, as well as a day walk through the jungle-like Ream National Park – another great local secret.

The facts: The easiest route to Sihanoukville is from Phnom Penh – a four-hour bus ride. Wealthy Vietnamese holiday here. The best accommodation is at the five-star Sokha Beach Resort (from US$250 per night). Serendipity Beach at the western end of Occheuteal Beach has bungalow style guesthouses (from $8 a night).

LAOS

LUANG PRABANG: Sleepy, saffron-tinged heritage
On the banks of the gentle Mekong, Luang Prabang is one of the best-preserved fusion cities in South-East Asia. Despite a UNESCO World Heritage listing and a recent growth in tourist numbers, this destination has retained its dreamy quality of a cobbled French village. It was capital of the ancient 14th century kingdom of Lane Xang, then, after the arrival of the French in the 1890s, it remained the residence of the royal family headed by King Sisavang Vong – a man who had more than 50 children to 15 different wives.

The town’s extraordinary architecture includes monasteries dating from the 15th century, airy timber and iron buildings reminiscent of the colonial period, romantic French-style villas and the impressive Grand Palace (constructed in the early 1900s) on the horizon. Today there are still 32 wats and the town’s 1,000-odd saffron-robed monks rise at 4am to pray and meditate before they walk through the streets, lacquered bowls in tow, collecting alms from shop owners and townspeople. Spend the morning at Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang’s grandest temple complex, built in 1560. Its intricate mosaics, reclining Buddha and low-scooping roofs are awe-inspiring. Then at sunset make your way to Mount Phousi – a 100m-high hill with 360 steps leading to more temple buildings and ancient ruins.

The facts: Get around town on two legs to soak up the atmospheric architecture. The eating is best at the makeshift riverside restaurants; or try the evening food stalls near the night markets off Sisavangvong road for authentic Laotian spring rolls and sticky rice. There are direct flights from Luang Prabang International Airport to Bangkok, Vientiane and Hanoi.

BOLAVEN PLATEAU: Coffee, cotton and silk
The Southern Laos province of Champasak is the gateway to the lush Bolaven Plateau, with its coffee plantations, tribal villages and traditional riverside weaving. The best base for exploring is Pakse, a regional outpost town of 66,000. Infrastructure in Pakse is scarcer than in other parts of Asia, but for US$25 a day you can hire a jumbo driver to take you exactly where you want to go. Travel an hour and you’ll hit Ban Saphai – a cotton and silk weaving village where men and women of all ages work looms under stilt houses.

Two hours away are the impressive Tat Fan and Tat Lo waterfalls, tumbling through thickly forested gorges. And on Pakse’s outskirts, visit villages with neither running water nor electricity. The highlight is Wat Phou – an ancient ruined Khmer temple built on a sacred mountain and dating from the 6th century. Feel the mysticism and serenity as you stand atop the 600m-high hill and gaze over the surrounding plains. Travel in summer and you’ll arrive just in time for the blooming frangipani trees that line the hundreds of stairs.

Champasak is small compared to Angkor, but its distance from major cities maintains the well-kept secret.

The facts: Lao Airlines flies between Pakse and Vientiane. Die-hard overland enthusiasts should try the two-day overland bus journey from Vientiane. The 14-hour journey is best broken with an overnight stay in Savannakhet.