When in INDOCHINA…

Don’t mention the war and observe generous personal space, writes ERIN O’DWYER, in her glossary of Indochinese do’s and don’ts

WHEN IT COMES TO ALL THINGS economic, the Indochine has experienced fantastically divergent growth. Vietnam has not looked back since it opened its doors to the world in 1986. In 2008, GDP was at almost US$85 billion and over the past decade annual growth has averaged 7.5 per cent. As agriculture has slowed, industrial production has grown. The country has emerged as the so-called “China-lite” of textile and clothing manufacture. By comparison, Cambodia and Laos remain devastatingly poor. Both are heavily reliant on foreign aid, and in Cambodia, around 80 per cent are subsistence farmers. Tourism is a shining light. Visitor numbers to Cambodia are increasing by 25 per cent each year, thanks largely to the Angkor temples. Regular travellers will be astonished by the shiny new infrastructure, particularly in Siem Reap. But don’t expect any dramatic improvements on the roadways. Even in Vietnam, you’ll need to pack all your patience to get anywhere fast.

Introductions: Among men, the handshake is ubiquitous. If dealing with women, wait for her to extend her hand first. A gentle bow will also go far. Questions like, “where have you been?” and “have you eaten yet?” are the cultural equivalent of “how are you?”. Do not give a lengthy response. Business cards are a must, and should be presented with typical Asian flair: two hands and a small bow.

Attire: Formal western suit and tie is the norm. Avoid vibrant colours and choose black, grey or dark suits. Women should avoid short skirts and skimpy tops.

Appointments: Business lunches or dinners are commonplace, but do not expect business to be discussed. Here, business requires lengthy relationship building. Also note the lengthy lunchtime siesta in all three countries. In Cambodia, the break extends from 11.30am to 2pm.

Meals: Punctuality signals a respectful visitor. Do not leave a pair of chopsticks sitting vertically in a bowl of rice. It looks like incense burning for the dead.

Drinks: Beer is served at lunch and dinner but follow your host’s example and keep consumption moderate.

Hierarchy: Men traditionally dominate in business and the home, though this is now changing. Respect for elders applies and extends to business leaders. The Vietnamese have a strong work ethic and are energetic entrepreneurs who will respect (and expect) hard work from others.

Gifts: Small wrapped gifts are appreciated. Thoughtful gifts from home (say, calendars or books) are appropriate. Watch out for large gifts that have the subtext: “extra obligations required”. And beware of bribes.

Avoid: In conversation: sex, politics, communism, the Vietnam War and religion. Safe topics are family, sport, hobbies and culture – such as language, food and the beautiful scenery. Use first names in informal situations only.

Physical: Observe generous personal space, but do not be surprised by what may be construed as overly physical contact among men in Cambodia. The Vietnamese however do not appreciate being patted on the back or shoulders. Never point your feet towards something sacred and always remove your shoes inside a residential property.

Religion: Different beliefs and religions are always taken seriously. Laotians and Cambodians in the Mekong delta predominantly practise Theravada Buddhism. In Vietnam, Mahayana Buddhism is widely practised.

Politics: Vietnam remains a one-party communist state, with the reins held by the Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV). Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy. Government elections held in 2008 were won by the Cambodian People’s Party and deemed the most honest to date. Laos is a democratic republic in name alone – it’s essentially a Marxist-Leninist state ruled by the Lao People’s Revolutionary Party (LPRP).

City Transport: International driving licences are not valid in Vietnam and poor roads in Laos and Cambodia mean private car hire is a bad idea. Opt for local buses or affordable taxis in city areas. In Laos and Cambodia, enjoy the ride with a tuk-tuk or jumbo (or moto-taxi in Vietnam). Long-distance train and bus travel should be booked through a travel agent to avoid disappointment.

Dates: Expect travel delays during Chinese New Year (Tet in Vietnam) which occurs in late January or early February. Khmer New Year celebrations shut down Cambodia and Laos in mid-April.

Seasons: In the main, the cool dry season is from November to February; March to May is hot and dry; June to October is best avoided because of the monsoon. The region is generally hot and humid, between 25 and 30°C. Daytime temperatures in Hanoi and Vientiane can fall to around 10°C in winter.

Electricity: is 220v and you can connect using mostly round, two-prong sockets.

Emergency: In Vietnam, dial 113 for police, 114 for fire and 115 for ambulance. In Cambodia, dial 117 for police, 118 for fire and 119 for ambulance. In Laos, dial 190 for fire, 195 for ambulance and 191 for traffic police. In practice though no one bothers. For serious emergencies, contact your country’s embassy.

Visas: Required for any length of stay. A one-month tourist visa can be purchased on arrival in Laos and Cambodia. One-month business visas are also available for Cambodia. Business visas for Laos must be arranged ahead of time, as must all visas for Vietnam. Business visas for Vietnam are valid for three or six months and usually cost double.

Media: Throughout the region, TV and radio stations are state run. English language newspapers include Viet Nam News, Vientiane Times and The Phnom Penh Post. The Viet Nam News has a good online site: http://vietnamnews.vnagency.com.vn

ON BRAND

Mark Budden of Design Bridge on the socially responsible Vietnam brand Dutch Lady

Look around you on the streets of Saigon, Hanoi or any Vietnamese town and you will see somebody drinking Dutch Lady milk. It’s a brand much of the population has grown up with.

Dutch Lady (formerly Foremost) has been available in Vietnam since 1924 when their sweetened condensed milk was first launched. Since then, they’ve been committed to building a healthy community, continually introducing new products and variants onto the market containing essential vitamins and minerals for the Vietnamese – typically a nation of low dairy-product consumption.

Dutch Lady achieved a huge milestone in 1993 when it set up its first office in Saigon. Immediately, they started working with local farmers and cooperatives embedding local roots and creating a firm platform for their brand.

Since then, they’ve been committed to working with local communities and investing heavily in social education programmes. Their website is also refreshingly transparent, reinforcing brand values and carving their niche as a partner for life.

In a market lightly populated by competition, this solid endearment to the Vietnamese population has earned the brand lifetime partner status through all walks of life.