CITY GUIDES

Hanoi

IN BRIEF: The small elegant northern capital sometimes called ‘the Paris of the Orient’ has undergone a dramatic transformation over the past decade. But despite an influx of new high-rise hotels and modern shops, as well as a rapidly growing population, Hanoi still retains everything that makes it an oasis of tree-lined streets, lakes alongside lush open greens, quaint villas and restored temples that tell of the Indochine experience. The Old Quarter has been the city’s commercial hub since the 15th century and is still the domain of most travellers. Venture beyond the city to see Northern Vietnam’s extraordinary natural sights, including Halong Bay, bejewelled with limestone islands and listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.

DISTANCE: Noi Bai airport is 35km outside the city – a 40-minute taxi ride.

ORIENTATION: Take Hoan Kiem Lake as your landmark. The Old Quarter is just to the north of the lake, on the western banks of the Red River. Most of the major sights lie to the west of this area, including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature and the Presidential Palace.

SLEEP: Hilton Hanoi Opera is one of Vietnam’s leading hotels. Its luxurious, high-tech executive suites are fitted with marble and rosewood, and there’s a well-equipped business centre. 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3933 0500, www.hilton.com

The Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake overlooks the city’s largest lake and the 800-year-old Golden Lotus Pagoda. 1a Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, tel: +844 6270 8888, www.ichotelsgroup.com

EAT: French-born Didier Corlou spent 14 years as executive chef at the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi before opening the gourmet fusion diner La Verticale. He also leads one-day cooking courses. 19 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3944 6317, www.verticale-hanoi.com

PLAY: In the Old Quarter, Minh’s Jazz Club is a Hanoi icon. Saxophonist Quyen Van Minh attracts international stars as well as emerging local talent every night of the week. The décor is slightly shabby but the music is hot. 31 Luong Van Can, Han Kiem District, tel: +844 3828 7890.

SPA: The historic Sofitel Metropole Hotel underwent a US$16 million upgrade in 2007; its deluxe spa has just opened. Massages are legendary here so watch this space. 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3826 6919, www.sofitel.com

DRINK: Head to Highway 4 for an impressive range of Son Tinh rice wines and liquors with flavours such as rose apple, mulberry, white ginseng and ghekko-seahorse. 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3926 4200, www.highway4.com

SHOP: Hong Kong-trained lawyer Christina Yu turned to fashion when her husband’s work took them to Hanoi. Find her beaded and appliqué bags and accessories at Ipa-Nima Boutique. 17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3928 7616, www.ipa-nima.com

DAY TRIP: Don’t pass up a chance to see Halong Bay, even if that means skimping on Hanoi itself. The natural wonder features more than 3,000 limestone islands which emerge eerily from the blue-green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. Hanoi travel agents sell overnight tours, plus there are plenty of inexpensive charter-boat operators on the waterfront. Try specialist tour operator Ocean Tours (www.oceantours.com.vn). Allow two days.

KIDS IN TOW: Young and old will adore the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. Fairy stories dreamt up by farmers hundreds of years ago are performed here, with puppeteers hidden behind long-stick puppets that glide over a shallow pool of water. 57B Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem District, tel: +844 3825 5450, www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org

CONCIERGE TIP: For an experience that transcends culture, catch a performance at the Hanoi Opera House. The French built it at the turn of the century, inspired by Palais Garnier in Paris. 1 Trang Tien, tel: +844 3933 0113, www.cinet.gov.vn

INFORMATION: State-run agencies have the best on-the-ground info: try Vietnam Tourism (www.vietnamtourism.com)

Ho Chi Minh City

IN BRIEF: Officially known as Ho Chi Minh City, this vibrant Asian metropolis is still called Saigon by both locals and visitors. The work-hard, play-hard city has mushroomed from a quiet Indochine capital to a sprawling home for nine million people. Always buzzing with neon lights and seas of purring peak-hour motorbikes, city leaders expect that the greater metro area will be home to some 20 million people by 2020. In the centre, be sure to visit Reunification Palace, once the Presidential Palace of the South Vietnamese government, and Notre Dame Cathedral, built by the French between 1863 and 1880. Explore side street alleyways around Ben Thanh Market for “copy art” galleries, fashion boutiques and South-East Asia’s most mouth-watering nightly food stalls. For a taste of old ’Nam, explore the claustrophobic networks of Viet Cong tunnels at Cu Chi, 30km outside the city.

DISTANCE: Tan Son Nhat Airport is 7km northwest of the CBD – roughly a US$6 taxi ride – be prepared to haggle.

ORIENTATION: The city is a confluence of 16 urban and five rural districts. The CBD is known as District 1 or Dong Khoi and lies to the west of the Saigon River. District 5 is the city’s Chinatown. It lies southwest of District 1.

SLEEP: In the heart of the business district is the Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon. Rooms have views to the river and its Chinese restaurant Kabin offers one of the city’s best international eating experiences. Deluxe business suites are high tech. Ton Duc Thang, District 1, tel: +848 3822 0033 www.marriott.com.au Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers offers extensive conference facilities, a day spa to die for and five-star lobby-level retail therapy. 88 Dong Khoi, District 1, tel: +848 3827 2828, www.starwoodhotels.com

EAT: For fine French dining, book in to Au Manoir de Khai, located in a restored colonial villa just outside the centre. In a region where fine wines are not always easy to come by, this establishment prides itself on an impressive Beaujolais. 251 Dien Bien Phu, District 3, tel: +848 3930 3394

PLAY: Brave enough to try the local clubbing scene? Head for Apocalypse Now. It’s one of the city’s oldest clubs and once served the American troops. It’s open until late, seven days a week. Be ready to dance. 2C Thi Sach, tel: +848 3825 6124

SPA: L’Apothiquaire is a traditional French day spa that uses organic herbal floral waters and essential oils. It also specialises in treatments for men and couples. Try the Sofitel Plaza rooms at 17 Le Duan Boulevard, District 1, tel: +848 3824 1555, www.lapothiquaire.com

DRINK: Ever-popular Vasco’s now has a new location. In an old opium refinery, it has an outdoor balcony and live music ranging from French DJs to Vietnamese rap. 74 Hai Ba Trung, tel: +848 3824 2888

SHOP: If you are prepared to explore, look for clothes, shoes and bags from the alleyway boutiques around Ben Thanh Market. But for designer goods go no further than Gaya – an extensive showroom for local artisans. Here you’ll find homewares, bed linen, silverware and prêt-a-porter couture. Crn Le Lai and Nguyen Van Trang, District 1, tel: +848 3925 1495

DAY TRIP: The seaside resort of Long Hai is a two-hour drive away but it’s well worth passing by the much closer but slightly worn-out Vung Tau, marred by oil drilling operations. Long Hai has white-sand beaches and a fishing village feel.

KIDS IN TOW: Take time to smell the flowers at Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens. The gardens, established by the French in 1864, feature more than 2,000 trees including Chinese incense-cedar, bonsai and a variety of orchids. 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, tel: +848 3829 1425

CONCIERGE TIP: For bespoke suits and dresses with designer flair, check out Tricia & Verona. It’s run by two sisters with a Western sense of style who specialise in natural fabrics such as wool and muslin. 24-hour turn-around on request. 39 Dong Du, District 1, tel: +848 3824 4556, www.triciaandverona.com

INFORMATION: Pick up the English language Vietnam News. The tourist centre is at 4G Le Loi, District 1, tel +848 3822 6033. See also www.vietnamtourism.com

Siem Reap

IN BRIEF: Gateway city to the ancient temples of Angkor and Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building. Only a decade ago Siem Reap was a quiet provincial outpost, accessed by poor roads or boat from Phnom Penh. There were few places to eat and even fewer hotels. Now, upgrades of the international airport have seen fly-in visitor numbers grow rapidly – from around 40,000 in 2000 to 175,000 in 2007. A buzzing nightlife scene has followed, with an array of fine cuisine and all manner of hotels.

ORIENTATION: The river, Stung Siem Reap, separates the town into east and west. The newest hotels line the main road – National Highway 6 – to the airport. The main town centre clusters around the Old Market area, on the western bank of the river. Angkor Wat is a few kilometres north. The Tonle Sap lake, with its floating fishing villages, is 10km to the south.

EAT: Hotel Shinta Mani, which trains young at-risk Cambodians in hospitality, does fine fusion cuisine with local organic ingredients. Cnr of Ph Oum Khum and Ph 14, tel: +855 6376 1998, www.shintamani.com

DRINK: The Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC Angkor) in the renovated colonial French Governor’s quarters has an extensive cocktail menu and free WiFi. Pokambor Ave, tel: +855 6376 0283, www.fcccambodia.com

SLEEP: Le Méridien Angkor is the closest hotel to the Angkor temples and features a pool terrace with Khmer tropical gardens. Vithei Charles de Gaulle, tel: +855 6396 3900, www.angkor.lemeridien.com

PLAY: The Performance House, next door to the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, has nightly performances of Khmer classical dance. Vithei Charles de Gaulle, tel: +855 6396 3888

KIDS IN TOW: Visit the country’s first conservation centre, the Angkor Centre for Conservation and Biodiversity. Endangered cats, gibbons, pythons and storks are sheltered here. Tours are free, with donations welcome. 42km north of Siem Reap. Tel: +855 9960 4017, www.accb-cambodia.org

INFORMATION: Pick up a copy of the Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide at your hotel.

Phnom Penh

IN BRIEF: Once known as the Pearl of Asia – a nod to the exotic French-Asian glamour for which it became known in the 1920s – the Cambodian capital has a population of 1.5 million and has seen its fair share of trouble in recent years. It emerged from the ravages of the brutal Khmer Rouge reign only to face a flood of American-led NGO cash, which created dramatically divergent economies of scale in the flat sprawling city. Phnom Penh will stir all your senses with its bustling markets, richly decorated Buddhist temples and picturesque riverfront quay.

ORIENTATION: Get your bearings from the river promenade Sisowath Quay – a hotel and restaurant hub. The eclectic Psar Thmei, or central market, is a short tuk-tuk ride away. Between these two points, you can explore the city, which extends grid-like in a northwest direction along the Tonle Sap.

EAT: Riverside Khmer Borane Restaurant combines casual dining with traditional Cambodian cuisine. 389 Sisowath Quay, tel: +855 1229 0092

DRINK: The Green Vespa wins awards for its easy vibe, international-themed nights and extensive range of single-malt whiskeys. 95 Sisowath Quay, tel: +855 1288 7228.

SLEEP: InterContinental Phnom Penh was the city’s first international hotel and is walking distance to riverfront restaurants. 296 Boulevard Mao Tse Toung, tel: +855 2342 4888, www.ichotelsgroup.com

PLAY: When the sun goes down, the Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC Phnom Penh) is walking distance from must-see destinations National Museum, Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. Ideal for solo travellers, check out the photography collection, which spans the past four decades of Cambodian history. 363 Sisowath Quay, tel: +855 1272 4014, www.fcccambodia.com

KIDS IN TOW: Picnic on the Tonle Bati, a lake about an hour’s drive south of the capital.

INFORMATION: Find news and entertainment listings in the English language Phnom Penh Post. The Ministry of Tourism is at 3 Monivong Blvd, www.mot.gov.kh

Vientiane

IN BRIEF: The elegant colonial capital Vientiane (meaning City of Sandalwood) makes the most of its tree-lined streets and riverside geography. Usually a stopover city for travellers heading north to Luang Prabang or intrepid adventurers exploring the wilds of southern Laos, Vientiane is nonetheless becoming its own tourist attraction with its stunning temples, a swathe of new French-style cafes and a national museum that tells the story of the communist struggle. Although still visibly poor, a new generation of well-educated young Laotians have flooded into Vientiane, giving it an optimistic air of life.

Distance: Wattay International Airport is 5km to the northwest of the city centre. There are flights to Thailand, China, Cambodia and Vietnam, as well as Luang Prabang and Pakse.

ORIENTATION: Th Fa Ngum is Vientiane’s main strip, one of three main streets that run in an arc parallel to the river and form the inner city. Most of the hotels, cafés and restaurants are here. The Nam Phu fountain on Th Setthathirat makes a great landmark from which to explore.

SLEEP: The Lao Hotel Plaza is one of the newest in Vientiane. Its executive suites are high-tech and aimed at the savvy business traveller. 63 Th Samsenthai, tel: +856 2121 8800, www.laoplazahotel.com

EAT: For authentic Lao-style food with a cheap and cheerful atmosphere, don’t go past Vieng Sawan in the Chinatown district. Try house specialities naem neuang (barbecued pork meatballs) and the sour-flavoured yaw (spring rolls). Th Heng Boun, tel: +856 2121 3990

PLAY: On the sandy Don Chan island in the middle of the Mekong, the 14-storey Don Chan Palace is the tallest building in Vientiane. It also boasts the city’s loudest nightclub, Lunar 36. Off Th Fa Ngum, tel: +856 2124 4288, www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com

SPA: Just opposite Xieng Veh temple is Papaya Spa. Featuring teak and rosewood pavilions, the spa offers traditional treatments with imported French oils and local lotions homemade from papaya, tamarind, honey, milk and turmeric. Ban Sithan Neua, tel: +856 2121 6550, www.papayaspa.com

DRINK: Sunset Bar, at the western end of Th Fa Ngum, is popular among expats and travellers. Arrive in time to watch the sun set over the Mekong and prepare to sip Beerlao long into the evening. Th Khouving, tel: +856 2125 1079

SHOP: Talat Sao is Vientiane’s Morning Market and the best place to pick up bargains on everything from silk scarves to woven wall hangings, electronics and handicraft souvenirs. It’s open 7am to 5pm, despite the name. Th Lan Xang.

DAY TRIP: Buddhist monastery Wat Si Sake was the only temple to survive when the city was virtually razed to the ground in 1928, led by Lao prince Chao Anou.

KIDS IN TOW: Go bowling. Young Laotians are passionate about the sport and, incredibly, there are three alleys in town. Lao Bowling Centre, Th Khun Bulom, tel: +856 2121 8661

INFORMATION: Tourism Laos, Th Lan Xang, www.tourismloas.com

CWT’S TIPS OF THE TRADE

VIETNAM
Taxi: Fares are higher past midnight; choose between Vinasun, Vina, Savico, or Festival taxis. Most drivers don’t speak English, so have your destination written in Vietnamese, or a map.
Tipping: Service is always included, but you should leave a small tip.
Shopping: Most shops close before midnight, with some convenience stores open 24-7. Some restaurants, bars and clubs open until 3am. Banks open weekdays from 8am to 5pm, Saturday morning from 8am to 11.30am. – Nguyen Van Chinh, CWT Vietnam

CAMBODIA
Transport: Taxis or re-morks (tuk-tuks) are the best way to get around. Tipping Most diners leave US$1–2.
Telephony: Local SIM cards can be purchased at airports for domestic/ international calls, which cost 15c to 25c/minute.
Services: In Phnom Penh, most petrol stations are equipped with a convenience store, ATM and restroom Business hours are from Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm. – Sambath Chhoun, CWT Cambodia For more Indochina tips, see pp 76–77