SOUTH-EAST ASIA

01 Apr

Spanning the region south of China, east of India and north of Australia, South-East Asia was once an enigma to Western travellers. Today the region retains an exotic splendour, mixing diverse beauty with rich culture and colourful, age-old traditions. Marvel at Bali’s Hindu temples and Jakarta’s fusion of high-tech splendour and old-world grandeur; lose yourself in the ancient templescapes of Northern Thailand; traipse Langkawi’s eclectic markets; or experience the vibrancy of sophisticated Singapore.

In this issue, we have focused on four countries in the region most relevant to you – Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia; Indochina will be under the spotlight in next issue’s “Ultimate Guide”

Sights: Truly Asia

Four countries, myriad destinations – let’s see it for Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore

INDONESIA

BALI: Gods central
Arrive in Denpasar airport at dusk to experience the capital’s scooter-strewn hubbub in all its glory as squawking hooters and horning trucks fill the air with a cacophony of rush-hour mayhem. Yet away from the melee, just a half-hour outside the city, the magical, spiritual tranquillity of Bali is all-engulfing, from roadside deities adorned with offerings for the gods and sweet-smelling incense sticks at family shrines, to sacred temples scattered with flowers and the yellow glow of candlelight. Along the sinuous outlines of winding rivers, deeply incised in volcanic plateau rock, sprouting bamboo and rice terraces sit amongst reed-and-thatch buildings, stone carved Hindu statues and vibrant tufts of hibiscus. Haggle over beaded trinkets, rattan goods and flame-coloured batiks in the bustling tourist markets of Kuta, or soak up peaceful wave-sung sunsets on the empty beaches of rustic Canggu. Marvel at the vast, cavernous Danau Batur crater lake on the south-eastern side of the Batur caldera or simply enjoy the friendly smiles of the Balinese people on this so-called Island of the Gods. Follow narrow, vine-clad climbing paths filled with nesting weaverbirds, giant swaying palms and soaring ferns. Ride an elephant across the rainforest, kayak among the mangroves or raft on boulder-studded crashing white-water runs. Numerous mountain bike loops and hiking trails lead to timeless Balinese villages where exotic infused teas are sipped in mud-built houses on pandanus leaf mats to a symphony of croaking frogs.

Getting there: Ngurah Rai International Airport, Indonesia’s third busiest, is located in southern Bali, 15km from Denpasar.

Information: www.balitourismboard.org

YOGYAKARTA: History repeating
Java’s foremost cultural hub, Yogyakarta boasts a host of 16th-century legacies from the mighty empire of Mataram: timeworn traditions, ancient handicrafts, age-old monuments and folkloric art. Classical and contemporary Javanese dances, wayang kulit (leather puppet theatre) and traditional artworks are in plentiful supply in this crowded city where craftsmen excel in skilfully crafted batiks, silver and leather. Indonesia’s prestigious Academy of Fine Arts (ASRI) has its home in Yogyakarta; bold, modern styles are personified by famous Indonesian impressionists and brave, artistic pioneers. Referred to as the gateway to central Java, Yogyakarta stretches from the sacred peaks of Mount Merapi to the Indian Ocean’s lapping waves, about 600km from Jakarta and 1,000km from Bali. Lively city sights centre on congested Malioboro Street, where street vendors ply for trade among gleaming stores, market stalls, tourist shops and cheap hotels. At the cultural heart of Yogyakarta is Kraton, or the Sultan’s Palace which, though run down, is a statement of 18th-century high art that emanates a spirit of regal refinement.

Known as Yogya by the locals, the city is best explored on a traditional becak – a three-wheeled rickshaw that sees passengers sit in front of the driver for a speed-trip around curved streets and bumpy potholed side lanes. These much-loved non-motorised modes of transport may be famed for their deficiency of engineering precision and non-existent brake power, but for in-the-thick-of-it excitement and up-close views, the becak is impossible to beat.

Getting there: Yogyakarta is linked by bus, train and plane to the rest of Java, Sumatra, Bali and Lombok. Adisucipto Airport is located 6km to the northeast of the city.

Information: www.yogyes.com

THAILAND

PHUKET: Beach culture
Although famous for its eye-popping white-sand and west-coast beaches, Phuket has considerably more to offer than a simple succession of gorgeous resorts. Mangrove-lined shores to the east are a rich haven of brightly coloured birds and butterflies, while a range of spectacular forested hills run from north to south, neatly dividing the island in two. Thailand’s largest island at 570sqkm, Junk Ceylon, as it was once known, is surrounded by pinprick-sized islets and is roughly the same size as Singapore. Separated from the mainland by the Chong Pak Phra channel at its northernmost point, a causeway connects the island to the mainland. Hike the lush, leafy trails of lofty Mai Tao Sip Song, Phuket’s highest peak at 529m, or stroll the funky street markets of the island’s oh-so-sleepy, Sino-Portuguese-heritage provincial capital. Discover a wildlife-filled jungle, steamy lowlands of rice paddies, pineapple fields and coconut palms now protected as the Khao Phra Thaeo Park. Enjoy a dip in rocky coves hidden among the crags and folds of Phuket’s rugged headlands or explore the island’s coral gardens, take an elephant trek or ride a horse along the beach. Keen for Robinson Crusoe-style adventure? Then head out to one of Phuket’s many deserted rustic islands to sling a hammock across the palms, fish from the sand or simply drift from island to island and literally go with the flow.

Getting there: Phuket International Airport is modern and located in the north of the island, about a 45-minute drive from Patong Beach. Numerous taxis and an airport bus connect the town with the airport.

Information: www.phukettourism.org

CHIANG MAI: Northern serenity
Once of the first South-East Asian states to make the historic transition from domination by Mon and Khmer cultures to a new Thai-ruled era, Chiang Mai is a keystone of any journey through the nation. Mixing abundant cultural riches and a proximity to many natural treasures, the city has become synonymous with a relaxed, temple-sprinkled serenity – albeit in an atmosphere of frenzied handicraft shopping and a growing number of trendy bars, cafés and boutique hotels. Once a storied stopping-off point for travel-weary journeymen heading to the hills, Chiang Mai is now a cosmopolitan hangout filled with an eclectic mishmash of old and new. Located more than 700km northwest of Bangkok, Chiang Mai’s many temples (300 at the last count) dominate sections of the ancient city centre – a quaint, moat-ringed walled settlement trimmed by legend-steeped mountains. From the statuesque Tapae Gate, a flotilla of tuk-tuks race around the city’s noisy bazaars and famous Sunday night market. Rich history, aged myths and fiercely upheld traditions fuse with contemporary modern culture in 21st-century Chang Mai.

Getting there: Located less than 10 minutes from the city centre, Chang Mai International Airport handles two million passengers every year, with flights to and from Bangkok, as well as Singapore, China, Taiwan, Myanmar and Laos.

Information: www.tourismthailand.org

MALAYSIA

CAMERON HIGHLANDS: Colonial cool
Named after William Cameron, a British surveyor who stumbled across the verdant plateau in 1885 during a mapping expedition, the Cameron Highlands was developed as a hill station 40 years later. Following the construction of a winding road, this remote climbing stretch soon began to attract the affluent elite to its tranquil idyll, prompting a boom in upscale holiday retreats and country homes. Agricultural workers tended to farms on the slopes of the highlands – where tea crops thrived – to create the famous BOH Plantations. Today, this bucolic bliss remains. The Highlands is also a leading producer of flowers in Malaysia, and the dazzling array of velvety blooms in every conceivable colour is a true sight to behold.

Offering an English-style quaintness and old-village charm, browse the farm shops of Ringlet, the rolling pastures of the Bertam Valley, Brinchang’s fine organic restaurants and roadside stalls of local produce, and the butterfly gardens of the Blue Valley region.

Getting there: Accessible only by road, the Highlands is located about 200km from Kuala Lumpur, a 3.5-hour drive via the North-South Expressway (NSE).

Information: www.tourism.gov.my, www.cameronhighlands.com

LANGKAWI: Mangrove moments
The Andaman Sea archipelago of Langkawi comprises some 104 islands, five of which are only revealed at low tide. Located about 30km off the mainland coast of north-western Malaysia, Langkawi lays to the north of the Strait of Malacca near to the Thai frontier. Until the late 1980s, Langkawi was a remote hideaway frequented by shoestring travellers and adventurous types unfazed by rustic transportation. Today, it boasts a tax-free status and attracts significant numbers of tourists. Its expansive conservation zone is made up of stunning natural landscapes, which are all protected thanks to the island’s UNESCO Geopark status.

Most visitors arrive to dive in deep, clear, off-shore waters, fish and sail around the islands where soft-sand bays and sweeping shorelines provide some of the most gorgeous beaches in Malaysia – a favourite barefoot hang-out with well-heeled yachties, beach-bums, local fishermen and tourist revellers alike. Burau Island is noteworthy as a roosting place for a wide array of migratory birds, while the calm, sheltered waters of Tanjung Rhu are perfect for a lazy dip away from the crowds. Head to upmarket Datai Bay to mingle with the rich and famous amid lavish resorts, secluded sands and surrounding tropical rainforests, or opt instead for Bon Ton Resort and Restaurant in the southeast. Serving some of the best food on the island, Bon Ton will see you share its huts and restored Malay houses with some very attractive and charismatic cats – all of which have benefited from good veterinary care funded by the resort.

Getting there: You can get to Langkawi by air or sea. An airport at Kuala Muda, 20km west of Kuah, serves the island with flights from Malaysia (including Kuala Lumpur and Penang), Singapore and Japan. Frequent ferries serve the island and take some four hours to get to the mainland.

Information: www.visitkedah.com.my, www.bontonresort.com

SINGAPORE

EAST COAST PARK: Where the city goes to play
Weekending Singaporeans enjoy nothing more than revelling in the beachside greenery of the East Coast Park, where manicured bloom-filled gardens and fluffy sands reveal a host of family attractions. This ever popular one-stop-leisure-shop offers something for recreation seekers of every age, be it working up a sweat on a hire bike or rollerblades, a game of tenpin at the bowling alley, or some driving practice at a state-of-the-art golf range. Play tennis, go diving, take a small sailboat or windsurf out, or simply enjoy a stroll along the palm-edged sands. Stretching along 12km, and with connector paths all the way past the airport to Changi Village, the East Coast Park is the nation’s largest leisure facility of its type and is built entirely on reclaimed land. Safe, sheltered waters and manmade beaches are synonymous with family style rest and recreation for Singaporeans, who fire-up sizzling skewers on barbecue pits on long, lazy Sunday afternoons with groups of family and friends. Handholding couples enjoy picnics in the cool sea breeze while yoga groups stretch and posture to the gentle sounds of waves. Urbanites pace, plod and sprint around a 15km jogging track. Dozens of outdoor tables at the East Coast Park’s Seafood Centre serve up a good range of lip-smacking feasts from the sea, from Singaporean chilli crab and stir-fried shrimp-and-rice, to wok-fried squid and black-pepper langoustines.