Okinawa’s Churaumi
Aquarium is home to several
whale sharks and is the only
place to have bred mantas
in captivity OKINAWA: Southern comfort
Okinawa is Japan’s southernmost prefecture, a chain of islands that stretch almost to Taiwan. When urban Japanese want to escape, many head here for golden-beach-lounging. Once a separate kingdom, Okinawa had strong ties with both China and mainland Japan. Shuri Castle is clearly influenced by Chinese architecture, while the love of Dr Pepper, spam and ageing Cadillacs is found nowhere else in Japan.
There is great diving just off the main island around the Keramas, but for a couple of months in autumn/spring, the reefs near Kabira Bay on Ishigaki become thick with mantas. Yonaguni is a must-dive for it schools of hammerhead sharks, and the “underwater ruins” that are either natural rock formations or evidence of a lost civilisation.
For those who prefer to stay above water, the Churaumi Aquarium near Nago City has one of the world’s biggest saltwater tanks, and the largest aquarium window.
Getting there: Fly into Naha Airport on Okinawa’s main island.
Nikko’s Rinno-ji TempleNIKKO: Ancient wonders
Surrounded by giant cedars, the ancient Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples of Nikko stand side by side. This religious duality is part of life: births and marriages are celebrated with Shinto ceremonies, while funerals follow Buddhist custom. Rinno-ji temple was founded in 766 AD and houses three 8m-high images of Buddha. Nearby Tosho- gu Shrine was built to honour the memory of Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa Commissioned by his grandson, it took 1,500 craftsmen two years to complete. Gold leaf stands out against black wood and the Yomeimon gate alone reveals more than 400 intricate carvings. Nikko is at its best in autumn when the changing leaves create a spectacular temple backdrop. Getting there: The train from Tokyo’s Asakusa Station takes one hr. 41 mins.
Due to its white walls and
distinctive shape, Himeji
Castle is also known as
Shirasagi-jo, or the White
Egret CastleOKAYAMA & HIMEJI: Ancient crafts & castles
Himeji is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan. The UNESCO World Heritage site is heavily fortified with a five-storey main tower, four smaller towers, inner and outer walls, and a double moat. Though never used in battle, it’s possibly the best example of Japanese castle design. While Himeji-jo could be described as elegant or fairy tale- like, Okayama’s Crow Castle is more imposing. Its black walls and towers may be trimmed with gold, but they still give the appearance of brute strength and invulnerability.
Between Himeji and Okayama is the pottery centre Bizen. The high iron content of the clay used here produces deep red-brown pots that are unusually strong. Being unglazed, they’re also popular with practitioners of the Japanese tea ceremony and ceramics collectors. Getting there: Himeji and Okayama are both on the Shinkansen bullet train, approx. 40 mins. and 50 mins. from Shin-Osaka Station.
Exposed – Okayama’s
Hadaka Matsuri, or
Naked FestivalEVERYWHERE: Fantastic festivals
Festivals in Japan are common events. Some are national celebrations, such as visiting shrines in the first few days of the New Year, flying carp-shaped flags on Boy’s Day, or displaying traditional dolls on Girl’s Day. Other festivals are specific to a particular region, city or shrine. Okayama’s Hadaka Matsuri, or Naked Festival, involves thousands of men dressed in only loincloths fighting over three sacred bundles of sticks. Kamakura’s spring and autumn festivals include displays of horseback archery. At Nara’s Omizutori Festival, monks parade around Nigatsu-do Hall carrying fiery torches, their glowing embers floating down onto spectators. The highlight of Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri is the parade of gigantic floats, pulled through the city streets by teams of often inebriated men.
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